Kirjoittaja Aihe: Paula Begoun: Don't go shopping for hair-care products without me  (Luettu 30175 kertaa)

Poissa Marylee

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Ostin eilen Paula Begounin 706-sivuisen kirjan hiustenhoitotuotteista. Kirja oli Helsingin keskustan Akateemisen kirjakaupan viimeinen kappale ja maksoi 24,50 euroa.

Kirjassa on alussa yleistä asiaa, sitten arviointia eri hiustenhoitotuotteista ja lopussa vielä best shampoo for ... ja best conditioner for ...  jne. -luetteloita.

Olen ehtinyt kahlata kirjaa vasta 25 sivua, mutta tässä joitain poimintoja:

Paulalla on oma kotisivu: www.cosmeticscop.com

You can't rely on the information you receive from your hairstylist or from the hair-care company that makes the products you are thinking of buying.

True or false -kohta:
Expensive hair-care products are better than inexpensive ones. (Very false)
Inexpensive hair-care products are watered down, while expensive hair-care products are more concentrated. (false)
Salon products are better than drugstore products. (false)
Natural ingredients are better than synthetic ones (completely false)
Silicone is bad for hair (1,000% false)
You can repair damaged hair (false - it's is not possible)
You can protect hair from heat damage caused by blow dryers,flat irons, or curling irons (true - somewhat possible)
Cosmetic hair-care products can grow hair (almost false - cosmetics company products can't, but products from pharmaceutical companies containing FDA-approved drugs can)

There are no hair-care products that can repair, fix, correct, restructure, reform, change, reconstruct, restore, rebuild, or alter damaged hair. Hair is dead, so it cannot be repaired or permanently reverted back to normal in any way. You can no more mend a hair strand than you can mend a dead leaf or soften a rock. Realistically, if a product could repair hair, you should only have to use it a few times and then your hair would be repaired. That isn't what happens. You have to reapply these products every time you shampoo because their effect is only temporary, nothing more. There are wonderful products on the market that can temporarily, washing to washing, do some fairly incredible things to hair. Several ingredients can produce amazing results, from filling in the holes and tears in damaged hair cuticles to imparting a silky-smooth texture to the rough sections of the hair shaft. Many ingredients can, to some extent, be absorbed by the hair shaft to help make the hair soft and manageable.

It is true that good products can help generate a change in your hair and make it look better, but there are excellent products in all price ranges!

Most women need to believe that their hair will be more beautiful if they spend more money on it, and hairstylists are more than willing to encourage that attitude. A stylist who charges $60 to $150 for a haircut and $80 to $200 for a hair color service, but recommends Citre Shine shampoo at $5 for 12 ounces or L'Oreal's Vive Color-care conditioner at $3.99 for 13 ounches seems to be doing something contradictory or bad for your hair.

There are no hair-care products that can completely protect hair from heat damage. Hairstyling tools can get as hot as 350oF, transferring about 200oF to the hair.

There are no products that can protect hair from sun damage. Rinsing, styling and brushing hair removes or degrades sunscreen ingredients so the protection is either nonexistent or short-lived. The only sure-fire way to protect your hair from sun damage is to wear a hat.

The "natural" concept, as a marketing hook for hair-care products, is at the center of the fastest-growing and largest segment of the hair-care industry. Consumers are more likely to be swayed to purchase if some aspect of a shampoo, conditioner, or styling products appears to be formulated from natural ingredients. Most consumers are so enamored with the power of "natural" that there is no question in their minds whether any of this natural stuff is really good. Sadly, while some natural ingredients do indeed have beneficial properties for skin, most natural ingredients in hair-care products have little to no impact or influence on the health, cleanliness, strength or smoothness of hair. Paying for the illusion of benefit from natural ingredients does absolutely nothing for your hair, but, because products boasting natural ingredients tend to cost more, it can surely hurt your pocketbook.

Myth: You need to change or alternate shampoos because your hair adapts to them. The hair and scalp can't adapt to shampoos. Hair is dead. What can happen is that the conditioners, emollients, and slip agents (such as silicones) found in many shampoos can build up on the hair shaft over time, making the hair limp, sticky or dull. That buildup is easily washed away with a different shampoo that does not contain those specific ingredients. Myöhemmin tekstissä: I still favour the idea that changing shampoos make sense (perusteena se, että yksi shampoo voi aiheuttaa kerääntymiä hiuksiin)

Because volumizing shampoos are designed to deposit film-forming ingredients on the hair and those ingredients don't wash out easily, it is essential to alternate your volumizing shampoo with a shampoo that doesn't contain any of those ingredients.

Any shampoo with conditioning agents, silicones or film formers can cause buildup on the hair with repeated use.

Myth: Shampooning oily hair can make it oilier. Oil production is a process affected by our hormones, which generate signals that trigger oil glands to be overproductive, and there is literally nothing you can do from the outside to stop or change that activity.

Myth: Brushing the hair 100 times is good for the hair. Nothing could be further from the truth! Brushing the hair roughs up the cuticle, eventually chipping it away and exposing the cortex, leaving the hair porous and frayed.

Myth: Products within a line is designed to work together, so it is best never to mix products from other lines. Do not assume that hair-care products from the same line are all wonderful or that all of them will be compatible with you hair. Experiment with what works best for you hair's needs, not the needs of the hair-care line selling you products.

Väreistä ja permanenteista:
Products often claim that they will be less damaging to the hair because they don't contain peroxide or ammonia. What they don't tell you, however, is that the ingredients they use instead, which don't sound like peroxide or ammonia, do exactly the same thing to the hair as peroxide and ammonia. You may not recognize the names, but they are just as damaging.

Almost every hair-care line has good and bad products. Give up line loyalty. Truly superior shampoos, conditioners, styling products and special treatments can be found in inexpensive lines.

Hiusten pituudesta:
Naturally, there are variations in length potential, and women with tresses six feet long have been reported, but there are also women who can't grow hair much past their shoulders. The reasons for these variations is that length of hair is genetically predetermined, and that explaints why some women feel they can never get heir hair to grow past a certain point, while other women can' seem to get a hairdresser often enough to keep up with the grow-out.

As drying as alcohol can be for the skin and hair, in hairsprays or styling products it evaporates before it has a chance to affect the hair negatively. (Luin tällä viikolla jostakin naistenlehdestä saman, eli että alkoholia ei pitäisi pelätä muotoilutuotteissa, koska se haihtuu niistä hyvin nopeasti. ???)

Tähän väliin muutamia Paulan arvioita joistakin tuotteista:

L'anza Hair Repair Formula Protein Plus shampoo is a standard, but very good, conditioning shampoo that contains less protein than the name implies. It does contain plant oil and conditioning agents that make it a good choice for dry to very dry hair that is normal to thick or coarse.

L'anza Hair Repair Formula leave-in protector is very standard leave-in conditioner that is a good option for normal to dry hair of any thickness.

L'anza Hair Repair Formula resconstructor is similar to the Be long, Long hair formula strengthen above, except this contains less plant oil, which makes it better for normal to dry hair of any thickness.

L'anza Dry Hair Formula moisturizing shampoo contains TEA-layryl sulfate as one of its main detergent cleansing agents,which is completely inappropriate for any hair type, but is especially a problem for dry hair.

L'anza Dry Hair Moisture treatment is a good light-weight conditioner for normal to slightly dry hair that is normal to fine or thin.

Joico K-Pak shampoo for damaged hair is a standard, but very good shampoo, that is an option for normal to dry hair of any thickness, and poses minimal to no risk of buildup.

Joico K-Pak daily conditioner for damaged hair is nearly identical to the Altima daily moisturizer conditioner above, and the same review applies. The "extra" ingredients (alpha lipoic acid, vitamins) in this one have no effect on damaged (or any type of) hair, as those ingredients can't hold up under rinsing or styling tools.

Joico K-Pak deep-penetrating resconstructor for damaged hair is nearly identical to the Altima daily moisturizing conditioner above, except this contains mineral oil, hardly an exciting or specialised hair-care ingredient. It simply makes this a more emollient option suitable for dry to very dry hair or any thickness. There is nothing in this product,or any hair-care product for that matter, that can reconstruct or repair hair. This product is overpriced for that you get, and you can achieve a similar effect by mixing a bit of plain mineral oil with your regular conditioner as a special treat for dry hair.

Kerastase Nutritive Bain satin 3, shampoo for very dry, damaged hair is essentially a differently packaged, renamed, and very expensve version of L'Oreal's Vive Color-care shampoo for dry,color-treated, or highlighted hair. Choosing this over the less expensive L'Oreal option only reinforces the mistaken belief that expensive hair-care products are better. If that were true, why would a company like L'Oreal model its Kerastase products so closely after their own drugstore product lines?

Tigi Catwalk oatmeal & honey treatment shampoo doesn't contain oatmeal or honey, so the name is misleading. It is just a standard shampoo that offers no special treatment for hair. It can work well for any hair type.

Tigi Catwalk oatmeal & honey treament & conditioner is more of a standard conditioner that special treatment, and is a good option for normal to dry hair of any thickness. It contains the tinies amount of honey and not a single grain of oatmeal.

MOP C-system clean shampoo is a standard conditioning shampoo that is best for normal to dry hair of any thickness, though it can cause a slight buildup with repeated use.

MOP C-system hydrating shampoo begins well but ends poorly thanks to the inclusion of several irritating fragrant oils, including spearmint, lemon, lime and ginger. This shampoo is not recommended.

Jokaisesta kirjassa mainitusta sarjasta on alussa myös lyhyt luonnehdinta:
L'anza
What's good about this line: For a salon line, the prices are mostly reasonable; the conditioners present some wonderful options for dry to very dry hair; the styling product lineup is comprehensive and quite versatile, with few negatives to worry about.
What 's not so good about it: The majority of the shampoos contain drying detergent cleasing agents; the claims, particurly for the botanical ingredients in the Urban Elements line, are completely without support or substantiation.

Joico
What's good about this line:  A nice variety of shampoos that are truly appropriate for their intended hair type; conditioners that run the gamut from light to substantial; some very good, silicone-based smoothing and straigthening products.
What's not so good about it: A few of the styling products contain problematic ingredients such as sodium polystyrene sulfonate or the preservatives methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (Kathon CG); there are no extra emollient conditioner options for very dry hair; claims for many products are way beyond what the ingredients they contain are really capable of doing.

Nexxus
What's good about this line: Some excellent shampoos and conditioners that can meet a variety of hair needs; most Nexxus hairsprays are very flexible and ideal for softer styles; the prices on many Nexxus items are on the low end considering its salon heritage.
What's not so good about it: The bad products here are really bad; the Phyto Organics line is considerably more problematic than helpful for hair and scalp; the Axios men's line is disappointing; Nexxus makes some of the poorest reconstructing products around (of course, no hair-care product can reconstruct damaged hair,but the term is used so often here that it is essentially its own category).

Graham Webb:
What's good about this line: Overall excellent shampoos and conditioners; enough styling products to satisfy anyone's needs, from natural to extreme, including some unique options.
What's not so good about it: The Ice Cap product line is nothing more than a showcase for menthol; a few of the conditioners contain a high amount of clay, which is nothing but drying for hair; too many repetitive products - this line should be streamlined.

Kerastase:
What's good about this line: Most of the shampoos, conditioners and styling products work well, though often not for their intended hair type.
What's not so good about it: Often-outrageous prices for hair-care products that, for all their posturing, are incredibly standard, often boring formulations; none of the products come close to matching their unrealistic claims.

KMS:
What's good about this line: KMS is one of the few hair-care companies that list ingredients for each of their products on the company's Web site; the shampoos and conditioners are uniformly excellent; prices (for a salon line) are tolerable; the variety of styling products means there's something for everyone.
What's not so good about it: Several leave-in products (mostly for styling) contain the problematifc preservatives methylchlordoisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone (Kathon CG); their product selection is larger than it needs to be, which can create confusion while trying to decide what to buy.

MOP:
What's good about this line: Most of the styling products work beautifully,but not because of the plant extracts they contain; the conditioners offer a range of emolliency for all hair types.
What's not so good about it: Several plant extracts in these products, including peppermint, eucalyptus, sage, and others, cause scalp itching and irritation.

Redken:
What's good about this line: A few if the styling products are versatile, somewhat unique options well-suited for today's modern, textured yet casual hairstyles; the Color Extend color-enhancing conditioners are excellent; overall, the shampoos and conditioners are effective, though very standard, options.
What's not so good about it: Claims that are often unrealistic (though Redken is hardly the only company to cross that lince); the numbered holding system for the main collection of styling products is more confusing that helpful, though the lower-numbered products do tend to have minimal to no hold as indicated; a few leave-on treatment products contain the drying sulfonic acid polystyrene sulfonate; the styling gels are either problematic formulas or just not as elegant as many others.
 
Tigi:
What's good about this line: The shampoos are uniformly excellent, as are most of the conditioners,though there are no extremely emollient options for very dry or damaged hair; Tigi has some of the most creatively named and fun styling products around, and the really food news is that almost all of them perform well; the sheer extent and range of styling products means every hairstyle imaginable can be realized; best of all, this line does not suffer from blatant repetition in each product category as so many other lines do.
What's not so good about it: Although the styling product options are plentiful, enough of them have problematic ingredients to make it unwise to choose them at random or on a whim; the styling product prices are much higher than those of average salon lines, while the sizes for many of them may leave you and your hair feeling short-changed.

Paul Mitchell:
What's good about this line: Most of the shampoos and conditioners are highly effective options whose scope can meet the needs of every hair type and condition imaginable; one of the most reliable lines to shop for bountiful choices in styling products, again covering all the bases for every hair type and styling need, from minimal to cement-like hold; the color-enhancing shampoos are excellent; reasonable prices, for a salon-bred, salon-sold line.´
What's not so good about it: The Tea tree line is a collection that will only cause irration thanks to the high amount of peppermint oil in all of the Tea tree products; a few styling products contain drying sulfonic acid,film-forming agents, or sodium polysterene sulfonate; a few shampoos containg drying detergent cleasing agents or other problematic ingredients that do more harm than good to hair.

 
Laskin, että Paula on arvioinut kirjassaan 134 eri sarjaa, sekä kampaamosarjoja että päivittäistavarakaupoissa myytäviä sarjoja. Arvioituja tuotteita on yli 4 000 kpl.





 





« Viimeksi muokattu: 08.02.09 - klo:18:42 kirjoittanut Marylee »

Poissa NarnianQueen

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Paulan kommentteja on aina mielenkiintoista lukea, vaikka ne kiistanalaisia ovatkin  ;) Itse olen jäsenenä hänen Beautypedia.com-sivustollaan, ja sieltä on löytynyt paljon infoa.

Aiempien kirjoitustensa perusteella oli tiedossa, että Paula suhtautuu myönteisesti kaikkiin edullisiin silikonipitoisiin vaihtoehtoihin (Dove, Pantene), eikä juuri puolla kalliita rakennepaikkaavia yms. tehosekoituksia. Hänen kantansa on aika yksiselitteisesti, että halvat ovat yhtä hyviä kuin kalliit, eikä tosi huonoja markkinoilla juuri tavatakaan...

Itselleni antoisinta oli se hiustuotebisneksen sisäpiiritieto, että Jenkkilässä on vain muutama raaka-ainevalmistaja, jotka toimittavat kaikille yrityksille - sekä halvoille että kalliille. On siis täysin harhaanjohtavaa se kalliiden kampaamomerkkien propaganda, että heidän tuotteidensa sisältö olisi oleellisesti erilaista kuin halvempien. Mutta kampaajat jaksavat tähän markkinakikkaan uskoa...
"I believe in Christianity just as I believe that the sun has risen; not only because I see it, but because by it I see everything else." -C.S. Lewis

I believe in sunshine, even though I don't always see it. I believe in love, though I don't always feel it.

1b F/M ii

Poissa lynx

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Mun täytyy tunnustaa, etten ole yhtään hiventä Paulan ajatuksiin perehtynyt tätä ennen. Enkä erityisemmin välitä myöskään siitä mitä päähäni pistän inci-mielessä. Jos tukka tuntuu hyvälle, niin käytän sitten niitä tuotteita millä se hyvä tulos tuli.

Mutta mutta, aika ylläri mulle toi, että hän löysi noin paljon hyvää sanottavaa Tigistä. Mä olen kuvitellut, että Tigi olisi ihan ehdoton ei-ei kaikille truu-hiustietäjille. Hilpeyttä herätti myös toteamus että L'Anza on reasonably priced :P Noh, ilmeisesti on Usassa sitä sitten...

Poissa Nukkumatti

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Natural ingredients are better than synthetic ones (completely false)

Tähän mun on kyllä erittäin vaikea uskoa
20 vuotta hiukset päässä!

Poissa NarnianQueen

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Huomasin ilokseni, että Paulan Beautypedian uudistuneessa versiossa oli yksityiskohtaisia arvioita kaikista TiGin tuotteista, joten pitihän ne tutkia. Positiiista on, että useimmat shampoot & hoitoaineet on leimattu hymykasvolla - siis hyvän tuotteen merkillä. Sen sijaan monen foorumilaisen lempituote O&H shampoo on saanut murjotusilmeen  :D syynä mukaan tungetut ärsyttävät kasviuutteet (tässähän on mm. kiwiä, ugh!!)
Hauska todeta, että After party tuomittiin kunnon tuotteeksi, sen sijaan muistaakseni Small talk sai tyrmäävän arvostelun... Aika moni muukin tuote leimattiin haitalliseksi niitten sisältämän allergisoivan säilöntäaineen takia.

Suuri osa shampoista ja hoitoaineista pääsi silti seulan läpi.    ;D
"I believe in Christianity just as I believe that the sun has risen; not only because I see it, but because by it I see everything else." -C.S. Lewis

I believe in sunshine, even though I don't always see it. I believe in love, though I don't always feel it.

1b F/M ii

Poissa cocos

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Ostin tän kirjan Amazonista n. kuukausi sitten :D Saa nähdä milloin paketti saapuu / saapuuko ollenkaan :-X
1c F ii

sandybell83

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Kiitos tästä ketjusta, kiinnostaa kovasti ja jatkan "opiskelua" näistä. :)

Ps. En itse puolla Tigiä, koska minusta mitä lyhyempi INCI niin sitä parempi, ja Tigeissä on todella paljon hajusteita mitkä ei todellakaan kaikille sovi!

PPs. Paul Mitchellistä olisi voinut sanoa, että se on järjestö, joka lahjoittaa liikevoitostaan aina osan hyväntekeväisyyteen :). Iso peukku tälläiselle toiminnalle myös  :ts